Four hundred years before I began photographing Paso del Norte’s historic smelting landscape, conquistadors traversing it on horseback waded north across the Rio Grande where it cuts a gash through the Rocky Mountains. The lure was silver, gold, and pagan souls–all promising generous returns for the trouble. By the mid-nineteenth century, el Camino Real, joining Mexico City to Santa Fe through today’s El Paso, was well-worn. Its rutted parched landscape was infamous, first trod by Indigenous hunters and traders, then by Spanish soldiers, Catholic missionaries, and migrants. And after them, mining engineers, railroad surveyors, and captains of industry–hoping to claim the treasure the conquistadores had missed.
By the late 1800s, eastern speculators had reshaped the continent’s mountain spine from Alaska to southern Mexico, much of it along the historic Camino route. Wilderness morphed into industrial landscape, a network of mines and smelters linked by a grid of new railroads to deepwater ports and world markets. Controlling most of it, by either influence or outright ownership, were a half dozen Gilded Age icons–Clark, Hearst, Heinze, Huntington, Rockefeller, and Meyer Guggenheim, founder of M. Guggenheim Sons, and its American Smelting and Refining Company (ASARCO). That rowdy era was as much clad in copper as gilt in gold. Copper, its mining, smelting, refining, was at the heart of enormous new fortunes–primary among them, Guggenheim’s. The family name, after more than a century, remains a synonym for philanthropy, arts patronage and implausible wealth.
Learning that Guggenheim money had come, literally, from dirt and rock was news to me. In 2010, researching the El Paso ASARCO smelter, and photographing the first phases of its demolition, I wished I could channel the voices of its earliest workers, now long gone. I wanted to know these trabajadores, the smelter laborersand their compatriots, those who had worked the mines under Santa Eulalia in Mexico, and deep beneath Leadville in Colorado.
Artifacts, and the departed, don’t easily give up their stories. The best I can do is to photograph remnants of their ephemeral landscape: El Paso’s smelter site and workers’ cemetery, California Gulch in the Colorado Rockies, Santo Domingo in the desert canyon above Ciudad Chihuahua. The story, the vista, spans fifteen hundred miles. But nowhere to be seen, not even as mirages over the horizon, are Peggy Guggenheim’s Venetian palace, or el Museo Guggenheim Bilbao, or the Solomon R. Guggenheim museum in Manhattan:
Almost involuntarily, I see myself magically lifting and transporting it, Frank Lloyd Wright’s 5th Avenue spiral gem, two thousand miles south to carefully perch it on a tailings dump in Santa Eulalia. Then I invite the town’s mineros in to wander–to marvel at what they and their ancestors have built.
The question “To whom do we owe our wealth, and do we pay for it what we wholly owe?” drives this project. The photos here are mementos. Collectively they pay homage to a four century narrative, to the people who lived, worked and died here–and to the living landscape they leave behind.
–Martin Stupich, Albuquerque 2024
Four hundred years before I began photographing Paso del Norte’s historic smelting landscape, conquistadors traversing it on horseback waded north across the Rio Grande where it cuts a gash through the Rocky Mountains. The lure was silver, gold, and pagan souls–all promising generous returns for the trouble. By the mid-nineteenth century, el Camino Real, joining Mexico City to Santa Fe through today’s El Paso, was well-worn. Its rutted parched landscape was infamous, first trod by Indigenous hunters and traders, then by Spanish soldiers, Catholic missionaries, and migrants. And after them, mining engineers, railroad surveyors, and captains of industry–hoping to claim the treasure the conquistadores had missed.
By the late 1800s, eastern speculators had reshaped the continent’s mountain spine from Alaska to southern Mexico, much of it along the historic Camino route. Wilderness morphed into industrial landscape, a network of mines and smelters linked by a grid of new railroads to deepwater ports and world markets. Controlling most of it, by either influence or outright ownership, were a half dozen Gilded Age icons–Clark, Hearst, Heinze, Huntington, Rockefeller, and Meyer Guggenheim, founder of M. Guggenheim Sons, and its American Smelting and Refining Company (ASARCO). That rowdy era was as much clad in copper as gilt in gold. Copper, its mining, smelting, refining, was at the heart of enormous new fortunes–primary among them, Guggenheim’s. The family name, after more than a century, remains a synonym for philanthropy, arts patronage and implausible wealth.
Learning that Guggenheim money had come, literally, from dirt and rock was news to me. In 2010, researching the El Paso ASARCO smelter, and photographing the first phases of its demolition, I wished I could channel the voices of its earliest workers, now long gone. I wanted to know these trabajadores, the smelter laborersand their compatriots, those who had worked the mines under Santa Eulalia in Mexico, and deep beneath Leadville in Colorado.
Artifacts, and the departed, don’t easily give up their stories. The best I can do is to photograph remnants of their ephemeral landscape: El Paso’s smelter site and workers’ cemetery, California Gulch in the Colorado Rockies, Santo Domingo in the desert canyon above Ciudad Chihuahua. The story, the vista, spans fifteen hundred miles. But nowhere to be seen, not even as mirages over the horizon, are Peggy Guggenheim’s Venetian palace, or el Museo Guggenheim Bilbao, or the Solomon R. Guggenheim museum in Manhattan:
Almost involuntarily, I see myself magically lifting and transporting it, Frank Lloyd Wright’s 5th Avenue spiral gem, two thousand miles south to carefully perch it on a tailings dump in Santa Eulalia. Then I invite the town’s mineros in to wander–to marvel at what they and their ancestors have built.
The question “To whom do we owe our wealth, and do we pay for it what we wholly owe?” drives this project. The photos here are mementos. Collectively they pay homage to a four century narrative, to the people who lived, worked and died here–and to the living landscape they leave behind.
–Martin Stupich, Albuquerque 2024
Aerial view down into main stack, March 11, 2011
(35" x 24")
Stack interior, view up from between twin flues, 2012 [#3814-]
(35" x 24")
ASARCO power plant, steam turbine, 2012 [#3579]
(24" x 35")
ASARCO through railroad cut, from New Mexico toward el Paso del Norte, 2011
(26" x 24")
Smelter site aerial view, June 24, 2011 [#1067]
(24" x 35") Compare this to the following image made exactly three years and one day later from nearly the same spot 900 feet in the air.
Smelter site aerial view, June 25, 2014 [#0848]
(24" x 35") Demolition is essentially completed; compare to previous image.
ASARCO site prior to major demolition, 2010
(25" x 24")
No. 13 incline belt conveyor, with overhead color-coded gas delivery bus, 2010 [#f13_p2t01]
(26" x 20")
Aerial view, site of former acid plant, March 11, 2011 [#3637]
(35" x 24")
Fragments of cylindrical furnace, 2011 [#2292]
(35" x 24")
Matte ladle awaiting salvage and recycling, 2010 [#1624]
(9" x 14")
Interior view, dry-clay work station, 2010 [#1868]
(18" x 24")
ASARCO smelter copper converter building with Furnace #1, 2010 {#0385-]
(24" x 50")
South end of furnace #1 with trunnion rollers, 2010 [#2177]
(24" x 18)
ASRCO power plant flywheel, 2012 {#3281]
(35" x 24")
ASARCO's main 828-foot stack with Mt. Cristo Rey as backdrop, 2012 [#3250]
(24" x 35")
Demolition of two main stacks (composite view), 2013
(Center panel of 20" x 39" triptych)
Aerial view, north end of smelter site after extensive remediation, 2016 [#1506]
(30" x 20")
Landscape context, Cuidad Juárez (L) and New Mexico (R), three miles west of ASARCO, 2012 [#3718]
(35" x 24")
Remote ASARCO site, Hop Canyon mill, Magdalena, New Mexico, 2017 [#2337)
(35" x 24")
M. Guggenheim Sons' first mine, the "A.Y. and Minnie", Leadville, Colorado, 2016 [#1832]
(35" x 24")
Santo Domingo, Santa Eulalia mining district, Mexico, 2015
(35" x 24")
Smeltertown Cemetery, El Paso ASARCO site, 2010
(24" x 20")
Guggenheim smelter, Pueblo, Colorado, 2017 [#2836]
(24"x 35") Built in the late 1880s by M. Guggenheim Sons (later ASARCO), this plant smelted ore from Mexican mines; its furnaces were fired by coke from the infamous coal fields at Hastings and Ludlow, Colorado.
Coke ovens at Cokedale, Colorado, November 2017
(24"x 35") These ovens produced fuel for the Guggenheim/ASARCO smelters at Pueblo, CO and El Paso, TX
Coke ovens at site of former Hastings, in Garcia Canyon, Colorado, November 2017
(24"x 35") This photograph was made at Hastings, site of the famous 1917 coal mine explosion–killing 121 people–the most in Colorado mining history. See extended caption after the next image.
Interior, ruins of coke oven, Hastings, Colorado, November, 2017
(24"x 35") The Hastings and Ludlow coal mines, four miles apart, are famous for their disasters. Run by Rockefeller and Guggenheim managers, some of the 20th century's deadliest labor clashes and mining accidents occurred here.
Triángulo Mine, Ex-Hacienda Ruins, Mineral de Pozos, Mexico, 2019
This is one of several clusters of “ex-hacienda” ruins along Mexico’s Camino de la Plata, the Silver Road connecting 17th century mines to the smelting and refining centers of the greater Camino Real network, and to Mexico City, and ultimately the Royal Treasury in Spain.
Smelters at Santa Brígida, Mineral de Pozos, Guanajuato, Mexico, 2019
These three-story-tall stone structures have stood since 1595. Adjacent to a rich silver lode on the famed Camino de la Plata, this site was instrumental in filling Spain’s royal purse–and in funding the business of conquistadors and missionaries throughout New Spain.
View Up Into Santa Brígida Smelter, Mineral de Pozos, Mexico, 2019
Masterfully built of local stone and simple pointing, these smelter stacks have withstood over four centuries of monsoon rains, lightning strikes and scavenging. The interior walls retain their stucco finish, and still bear the stain of intense heat from the three smelter ovens.
Santa Brígida Silver Mine Site, Mineral de Pozos, Mexico, 2019
This 700-foot-long stone respirador is part of one of several vast mining-smelting-refining complexes common to the Camino Real de Tierra Adentro between Mexico City and El Paso–spanning four centuries of industrial history.